How to Remove Musty Smells and Mildew Odor from Clothes and Towels

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title: “How to Remove Musty Smells and Mildew Odor from Clothes and Towels”
slug: remove-musty-smell-from-clothes
parent: Smoke & Odor Stain Removal
child: Smoke & Odor Stain Removal
wp_type: post
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# How to Remove Musty Smells and Mildew Odor from Clothes and Towels

The musty smell in your clothes and towels is caused by mildew—microscopic fungi that grow when fabric stays damp for more than 24–48 hours. You can remove the odor with a simple two-wash method: white vinegar first to break down the organic compounds, then baking soda to neutralize any leftover acidity. For stubborn cases, an enzyme cleaner targets the proteins mildew feeds on. **Crucially, do not use hot water or high-heat drying until the smell is completely gone—heat can bake the odor into the fibers permanently.** That one mistake is the most common reason people throw away perfectly good towels.

## Why the Musty Smell Forms

Mildew releases volatile organic compounds (VOCs) as it reproduces. That “musty” smell is those VOCs escaping the fabric. Common causes:

– A wet towel left crumpled on the floor or in a closed hamper for more than a day. For example, a damp bath towel tossed into a plastic laundry basket after a shower often reeks within 48 hours because there’s no airflow to dry it.
– A load of laundry forgotten in the washing machine overnight—the warm, dark, moist drum is an ideal breeding ground. By morning, the mildew has already started colonizing the fabric.
– Clothes stored in a damp closet, basement, or garage without airflow. Even dry-looking fabrics can absorb enough humidity to allow mildew to grow slowly over weeks.

Wiping visible mold off the surface isn’t enough. The mildew’s root-like structures (hyphae) penetrate deep into the fabric fibers, so the smell comes from inside the threads. Simple washing with detergent usually leaves the odor behind because detergent alone doesn’t break down the organic residue mildew feeds on.

## Step-by-Step: Remove Musty Smell from Clothes

### Step 1: Pre-Treat Visible Mold Spots

Brush off any visible mold outdoors (wear a dust mask). For towels or clothes with dark mildew stains, make a paste of baking soda and a little water. Apply it directly to the spots, let it sit for 15–20 minutes, then rinse with cold water. This loosens the surface layer so the vinegar can penetrate deeper.

### Step 2: First Wash with Vinegar

Set your washing machine to the hottest water temperature that is safe for the fabric (check the care tag). Add **1 cup of white vinegar** to the detergent dispenser or pour it directly into the drum. Run a normal cycle. **Do not add laundry detergent**—detergent can neutralize the vinegar, making it less effective. The acidity of vinegar (about pH 2.5) breaks down the alkaline components of mildew and dissolves the organic compounds trapping the odor.

**Early checkpoint:** After this wash, smell the fabric. If the odor is noticeably weaker but still present, move to Step 3. If there’s no improvement, repeat Step 2 with an extra half cup of vinegar. If the smell is gone, skip straight to drying (Step 5).

### Step 3: Second Wash with Baking Soda

Run another wash cycle using the same water temperature. Add **½ cup of baking soda**—pour it directly into the drum, not the dispenser. You can also add your regular detergent now if you want, but it’s not necessary. Baking soda (alkaline, pH around 8) neutralizes the acidic residue left by vinegar and the mildew itself. This two-step pH swing (acid then base) is more effective at pulling odor compounds out of fibers than either step alone.

**Likely cause for failure:** If the smell remains after these two washes, the mildew has penetrated too deeply for vinegar and baking soda alone. Switch to an enzyme cleaner.

### Step 4: Enzyme Cleaner for Stubborn Mildew

Enzyme cleaners break down the organic matter (proteins, fats, carbohydrates) that mildew feeds on. Look for a laundry-specific enzyme product such as Nature’s Miracle, OxiClean, or Biokleen. Follow the label’s dosage for a full load. Wash in warm or cold water—enzymes lose effectiveness above 130°F. Let the machine soak for at least 30 minutes (some products recommend overnight) before completing the cycle.

**Specific example:** A bath towel that still smelled sour after two vinegar-and-baking-soda washes was soaked overnight in an enzyme solution (1 capful per gallon of warm water), then washed normally. The odor did not return. Reason: the enzymes attacked the embedded body oils and sweat residues that standard washing left behind, cutting off the mildew’s food supply.

### Step 5: Dry Properly – The Final Check

After washing, **do not put the items in a dryer until you are certain the smell is gone.** Heat will set any remaining odor permanently. Instead, line-dry or hang-dry in direct sunlight if possible (UV light kills mildew). Once fully dry, do a sniff test. If the smell returns when the fabric gets slightly damp again (for example, a towel after a shower), repeat Step 4. If the smell is gone, you can safely use a low-heat dryer setting.

**Concrete verification step:** After air drying, dampen a small corner of the fabric with water. Wait 30 seconds, then sniff that spot. If no musty odor, the process worked. If the smell reappears even faintly, the mildew is still active—repeat the enzyme soak.

**Stop/escalate threshold:** If you’ve done three full tries (vinegar → baking soda → enzyme) and the smell persists, the odor is likely baked permanently into the fibers. At that point, replace the item. You have done what DIY can.

## Quick Formula for a Musty-Smell Wash

Use this exact recipe for a typical large load of cotton towels or T‑shirts. Adjust quantities for smaller loads—halve the vinegar and baking soda.

“`text
First wash:
– 1 cup white vinegar
– Hot water (safe for fabric)
– No detergent

Second wash:
– ½ cup baking soda (add directly to drum)
– Hot water (same as above)
– Optional: regular detergent

If still smelly after two washes, add:
– Enzyme laundry treatment (follow product dosage)
– Warm water, 30-minute soak minimum
“`

Write this on a sticky note and keep it near your washing machine.

## Before You Wash – A Quick Decision Aid

Check the following before you start. If any item is “no,” address it first.

– **Machine-washable?** Delicates like silk or wool require a gentler approach (soak in vinegar solution instead of machine wash).
– **Visible mold spots?** Pre-treat with baking soda paste before washing.
– **Can you use hot water?** Polyester, cotton, and linen are fine. Check tags for max temperature.
– **Does the item smell musty even after a regular wash?** Yes → you need the vinegar + baking soda method. No → a normal wash with odor-removing detergent may suffice.
– **Is the room humid where you’ll dry?** If yes, use a dehumidifier or ventilation to prevent mildew from returning.
– **Have you cleaned your washing machine lately?** A musty washer can re-contaminate clothes. Run an empty hot cycle with vinegar once a month.

## When to Use Enzyme Cleaners

Enzyme cleaners are your go-to when the standard double-wash fails. They are especially effective for:

– **Organic stains** (sweat, food, body oil) that feed existing mildew.
– **Towels** that smell sour even after multiple vinegar washes (the mildew has penetrated the terry loops).
– **Sports gear** or workout clothes with built-up bacteria.

Enzymes work by breaking down the proteins and fats that mildew needs to survive. Unlike bleach, they don’t just mask the smell—they remove the food source. For best results, allow a full soak of at least 30 minutes; overnight soaking is even more effective for heavily contaminated items.

## The One Mistake That Locks In the Smell

Most articles tell you to use vinegar and baking soda, but they rarely warn you about heat. **Putting musty clothes in a dryer or using hot water during the first wash can set the smell for good.** Here’s why: high heat causes the mildew’s organic compounds to bond more tightly with the fabric fibers. Once baked in, no amount of washing will fully remove the odor—you may need to discard the items. A real-world example: someone dried a full load of musty bath towels on high heat after one vinegar wash, thinking the smell was gone. The odor returned stronger after the towels got damp again, and three subsequent enzyme soaks could not eliminate it. Always finish the entire deodorizing process (including a successful sniff test after air drying) before introducing heat.

## FAQ

**Q: Can I use bleach instead of vinegar?**

A: Bleach kills mildew on non-porous surfaces, but it can damage fabrics and may not penetrate deep enough to remove the odor. It also reacts with ammonia (common in sweat) and produces toxic fumes. Stick with vinegar, baking soda, or enzyme cleaners for fabric.

**Q: How do I keep towels from smelling musty between washes?**

A: Hang towels to dry fully after each use in a well-ventilated area. Never leave a wet towel in a pile or on a hook in a closed bathroom. Wash towels every 3–4 uses, or sooner if they start to smell. If towels still develop odor despite proper drying, check your washing machine for mildew buildup.

**Q: Why does my washing machine smell musty even after cleaning clothes?**

A: The machine itself may have mildew growing in the rubber seal, detergent drawer, or drum. Run a hot cycle with 2 cups of vinegar (no clothes) once a month. Wipe the door seal and gasket dry after each use.

## Explore This Topic
– Back to [Smoke & Odor](https://thecleantips.com/smoke-odor/)
– Back to [Smoke & Odor Stain Removal](https://thecleantips.com/wave12_smoke_odor/)

Related guides in this cluster:
– [How to Remove Smoke Smell and Stains from Walls, Furniture, and Clothes](https://thecleantips.com/remove-smoke-smell-stains/)
– [How to Get Mildew Smell Out of Clothes, Towels, and Laundry](https://thecleantips.com/remove-mildew-smell-from-clothes/)
– [How to Remove Mold and Mildew Smell from Towels and Linens](https://thecleantips.com/remove-mold-from-towels/)