How to Wash Shoes in the Washing Machine: A Complete Guide by Material

You can machine wash many shoes, but the wrong method will ruin them. Start by checking the care label and removing laces and insoles. Then bag the shoes, use cold water on a gentle cycle, and air-dry only. This guide breaks down exactly what to do for canvas, leather, running shoes, and kids’ shoes — plus when you should skip the machine entirely and when to stop DIY and seek professional help.

Before You Start: What to Check

Run through these five checks before you load the drum. If any fails, do not machine wash — hand-clean or take the shoes to a cobbler.

• Check the label: Look for a “machine wash” or “hand wash” symbol. If it says “do not wash” or “wipe clean only,” stop.
• Remove loose dirt: Knock soles together, brush off mud, and pick out pebbles. A dirty shoe in the drum grinds dirt into the fabric.
• Test for colorfastness: Dampen a hidden spot (inside the heel or under the tongue) with a white cloth. If color transfers, wash by hand or don’t wash.
• Inspect for damage: If the sole is separating, the heel is loose, or there are tears, the machine will make it worse. Hand-spot-clean only. If the sole is already peeling, take them to a cobbler — machine washing will finish the job.
• Check for removable parts: Always take out laces and insoles. They clean better separately, and laces can tangle and damage the machine.

Stop/escalate threshold: If the glue test (see the “What NOT to Machine Wash” table) fails, or if the leather is cracked or suede nap is badly worn, do not attempt machine washing. Take leather dress shoes or vintage sneakers to a professional shoe cleaner or cobbler. For everyday canvas or mesh shoes that fail the checks, replace them — the cost of cleaning may exceed the value.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow this order for any machine-washable shoe material.

1. Remove laces and insoles. Wash laces in a mesh bag or by hand. Insoles can be hand-washed with mild soap and air-dried.
2. Place shoes in a mesh laundry bag. This cushions the shoes and prevents them from banging the drum. If you don’t have a bag, use two pillowcases tied closed.
3. Add towels for balance. Throw in a couple of dry bath towels to dampen the thumping and keep the load balanced. This also helps scrub the shoes.
4. Set the machine to delicate or gentle cycle, cold water. Hot water can shrink leather, warp foam midsoles, or set stains.
5. Use a small amount of mild detergent. About 1 tablespoon of liquid detergent is enough. Avoid bleach, fabric softener, or oxygen-based stain removers unless the label specifically allows them.
6. Run the cycle and remove promptly. Don’t let wet shoes sit in the machine — they’ll develop mildew and odors.
7. Air-dry completely. Stuff each shoe with paper towels or a clean cloth to absorb moisture and hold shape. Keep away from direct heat (radiators, sunlight, dryers). Drying can take 24–48 hours. Do not machine-dry — it destroys glues and shapes.

Machine Washing by Material

Canvas Shoes (e.g., Vans, Converse, Toms)

Canvas is the most machine-friendly material. It’s sturdy, colorfast more often than not, and dries relatively fast.

• Prep: Brush off loose dirt. Pretreat heavily stained areas (grass, mud) with a paste of baking soda and water, scrub gently, and rinse before the wash. If the shoes have glued-on patches or decorative stitching, machine washing may loosen them — treat those spots by hand.
• Cycle: Delicate, cold water. A short spin reduces creasing.
• Drying: Stuff with paper towels and air-dry flat. If the shoes have rubber toe caps, avoid stacking them on top of each other while wet — the rubber can deform.
• Failure mode to catch early: If the canvas feels rough or stiff after the first dry, you used too much detergent. Rewash with no detergent on a rinse-only cycle, then re-dry.
• When to replace: If after washing the glue at the toe cap separates or the canvas tears, it’s time for new shoes.

Running and Athletic Shoes (e.g., Nike, Adidas, New Balance)

These shoes have foam midsoles that can trap water and take days to dry. Mesh uppers clean well, but the foam is the weak point.

• Prep: Remove insoles and any battery-powered electronics (like LED lights). Brush loose dirt from the outsole.
• Bag and towels: Absolutely required. Mesh bag plus two bath towels.
• Cycle: Delicate, cold water. No extra rinse needed if you used minimal detergent.
• Drying: Stuff with paper towels, change them after a few hours, then let air-dry for up to 48 hours. Do not use a dryer, heater, or direct sunlight — the foam will break down faster.
• Failure mode to catch early: If the shoe still feels heavy after 12 hours of air-drying, you have waterlogged foam. Remove the insoles (if not already done) and add more stuffing. Poke small holes in the paper towel wad (not the shoe) to improve airflow inside.
• When to replace: If the midsole feels squishy or flat after drying, the foam has degraded. Replace the shoes — worn foam no longer provides adequate cushioning.

Leather Shoes (including suede and nubuck)

Machine washing leather is risky. Only attempt it if the care label explicitly says “machine wash.” Otherwise, hand-clean with a damp cloth and leather conditioner.

• Prep: Remove laces. Use a soft brush to remove surface dirt. For suede, use a suede brush in one direction only.
• Bag and towels: Use a mesh bag and add two towels. For suede, consider wrapping each shoe in a separate thin cloth inside the bag to minimize abrasion.
• Cycle: Delicate, cold water. No spin cycle if possible (check your machine – some let you choose “no spin”). Too much spinning can crack dried leather.
• Drying: Stuff with paper towels and air-dry away from heat. Leather takes longer — up to 72 hours. Reshape the shoe by hand every few hours to prevent shrinkage.
• Failure mode to catch early: Watch for white or milky spots during drying – that’s salt residue from sweat. Wipe it off with a damp cloth immediately; once it sets, it’s harder to remove.
• When to replace or escalate: If cracks appear on the leather after drying, the damage is permanent. Take the shoes to a cobbler for conditioning and repair, or replace them. For suede that looks stiff or matted after washing, professional suede restoration may help, but it’s not guaranteed.

Kids’ Shoes (mesh, rubber, or plastic – e.g., Crocs, lightweight sneakers)

Kids’ shoes are often machine-friendly, but they tend to carry heavy dirt and sand.

• Prep: Remove as much sand as possible. Sand can damage the machine’s pump. Also remove loose stones from the tread.
• Bag and towels: Mesh bag mandatory. Add towels to cushion the lighter shoes.
• Cycle: Delicate, cold water. For heavily soiled shoes, let them soak for 15 minutes before starting the cycle (most machines have a soak option).
• Drying: Stuff with paper towels and air-dry flat. For Crocs or rubber shoes, you can speed drying with a fan on low, but still avoid direct heat.
• Failure mode to catch early: If the shoes still smell after washing, you likely have trapped moisture inside the foam. Remove all stuffing, let dry fully (check after 48 hours), and sprinkle baking soda inside overnight if the odor persists.
• When to replace: If the soles are worn smooth or the mesh has holes, it’s time for new shoes — machine washing won’t restore structural integrity.

What NOT to Machine Wash

Use the table below as a quick check. If your shoes fall into any of these categories, hand-clean them instead.

Shoe Type	Why Not to Machine Wash	Recommended Alternative
Leather dress shoes	Dries out, cracks, loosens stitching	Wipe with damp cloth, condition
Suede or nubuck (unless label allows)	Water ruins nap, hard to restore	Suede brush + eraser block
Shoes with glued soles (e.g., cheap sneakers)	Heat and water weaken the glue	Spot clean with mild soap
Shoes with decorative elements (beads, glitter, sequins)	Machine will strip them off	Hand-wipe each area
Vintage or irreplaceable shoes	Unexpected damage not worth the risk	Dry-clean or professional cleaning

Early detection tip: If you’re unsure whether the glue is water-resistant, drop a tiny bit of water on the sole seam. If it beads and rolls off, you’re likely safe. If it soaks in immediately, do not machine wash — the glue will fail in the wash.

How to Tell If the Wash Worked

After drying, check these points to confirm success:

• Inside: No dampness or sour smell.
• Outside: No new stains or color bleeding.
• Shape: Shoes look the same as before (no warping, shrinking, or buckling).
• Soles: Firmly attached, no gaps.
• Comfort: Wear them for a few minutes. If they feel tighter or looser than before, the wash affected the padding or material.

If any of these fail, you may need to repurpose the shoes for light use or replace them. For moderate shape loss, try wearing them with thick socks for a day to re-stretch canvas or mesh. But if the sole separates or the foam compresses permanently, it’s time to buy new shoes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I wash shoes with bleach?

Only if the shoes are white and the care label says “bleach safe.” Even then, dilute bleach to ½ cap per load. Avoid bleach on colored shoes — it will cause splotchy fading.

How often should I wash shoes in the machine?

Only when they’re visibly dirty or smell. Over-washing reduces lifespan. Most casual sneakers need a clean every 2–3 months. Athletic shoes used for workouts may need it every 4–6 weeks.

Can I dry shoes in a clothes dryer?

No. The high heat melts glues, shrinks materials, and can warp foam midsoles. Air-drying is the only safe method. Use a fan to speed drying if needed.

What if my shoes still smell after machine washing?

The odor likely comes from bacteria deep in the foam or lining. Sprinkle baking soda inside both shoes, leave overnight, then vacuum out. Repeat once more if needed. For persistent smell, replace the insoles.

Should I use vinegar or baking soda in the wash?

Skip vinegar — it can damage the machine’s rubber seals and leave a lingering smell. Baking soda (1 tablespoon) added to the drum may help deodorize, but it’s not necessary if you pre-treated stains.

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Keep this template handy for your next load:

Shoe wash checklist:
1. All checks passed (label, dirt test, damage)
2. Laces and insoles removed
3. Shoes in mesh bag
4. Towels added
5. Cycle: delicate, cold water
6. Detergent: 1 tbsp mild liquid
7. Air-dry only, no heat

If any step fails → hand-clean or skip.
If sole separates or leather cracks → take to cobbler or replace.

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